(part 1)

Compounds and Summer Residences

There was generally plenty of land available in the East, and acquiring the use of it was relatively cheap. The Royal Engineers’ Indian experience of cantonments, good for both security and health, helped establish compounds as the preferred way of providing Mission and consular accommodation in difficult places.

12. Shanghai. Consular site at north end of Bund, at confluence with Soochow Creek, showing first buildings. Shaded areas were sold off by a consul without authorisation in the early 1860s – part of the chaos that Crossman was sent to sort out.

13. Shanghai. Combined consulate offices/Supreme Court building at left, consul’s residence at right, with English Church and flagstaff beyond.

17. Tehran. marvellous garden in Tehran, plane trees, pools, peacocks and amazing wisteria the length of the terrace outside the State Rooms,

The first compound was at Shanghai in 1846, 15 acres (12, 13). Other early compounds included Bangkok in 1857, 7 acre (14, 15), and Tehran in 1868, 16 acres (16, 17, 18). Tokyo compound followed in 1871, 9 acres. The largest compound was at Addis Ababa, in 1896, about 80 acres (19),

Compounds had many advantages, and their value has stood Britain in good stead. But even they could not offer relief from extreme summer heat. The staff of many Missions took to the hills or the coasts for several months each summer. Where such retreats could not be rented, summer residences were built – several on a significant scale.

18. Tehran. Min flanked by wife and daughter, staff and escort in the 1920s, among the 50yr old plane trees.

At Gulhak, in the hills just north of Tehran, a house was built in 1863 (20).  After the Second World War, the Minister moved into another house on the Gulhak site (21). Probably the grandest of the summer residences was at Tarabya, on the Bosphorus outside Constantinople (22).

Eventually, and after some major tussles and compromises, air-conditioning wiped out the need for Summer Residences. Several were put to good new use: for example, Ramleh, built in 1909 outside Alexandria as Cairo’s summer residence, conveniently became the Alexandria consulate when its own building was ransacked in 1967 (and remains so).

21. Gulhak. This charming house was built in 1911 for the counsellor, and later became the summer residence. It is now in a sorry condition.

By 1900, Britain had 8 embassies, all in government-owned or long-leased Mission Houses, and 20 or so legations, about half of them likewise. The other half of the Ministers, and almost all the Agents, consuls-general and other Heads of Post were still leasing their own accommodation.

(part 3)

14. Bangkok. The first compound was laid out by a consul who had marked out the boundaries of British Guiana. It was originally only accessible from the river, at left, with landing stage and boathouse. This compound was vacated in 1926.

15. Bangkok. Consul’s house, viewed from middle of compound.

16. Tehran. Compound on Ferdowsi Avenue, laid out by Henry Pierson RE, with Minister’s house in the centre. This drawing 1913.

19. Addis Ababa. Emperor Menelik rode out with the consul and decided which gasha of land (about 100 acres) he should have for his consulate. Wilfred Thesiger was born in one of the tukuls in the middle.

20. Gulhak. The first house, built on land granted by the Shah. This tiny painting was by Pierson a couple of years later. The house was later enlarged to include more room for chancery.

22. Tarabya. This splendid site was granted in 1847 and the house built in 1870. It burned down in 1911 and was never re-provided. After the embassy moved to Ankara, the site became a recreational amenity for Ankara staff.

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